On March 7th we went to Mount Hodo to see the plum blossoms, though we were worried it would be too late. We started our climb at around 9:30am after parking the car near the ropeway station. On the way up we passed around 20 small groups and solo hikers. There weren’t many families, but what stood out were the amount of people in full hiking gear. It took us less than 40 minutes to reach the top ropeway station at a relaxed pace.
It was less of a trail and more of a wide gravelled road. Some of the larger pieces of rock were up to 10cm in diameter, it would be very easy to twist your ankle if you aren’t careful.
Chichibu is nestled among beautiful mountains and so much nature. Mount Hodo is a great place to get in touch with that nature and take a gentle hike. If you have children with you there is a small zoo, and for those who don’t feel physically strong enough to hike, there is a ropeway and cafeteria where you can rest and take in the exceptional views. From the peak of the mountain, you can look over the Chichibu basin and as far as Mount Buko.
The main attraction for us that day was the plum blossoms. Despite being a few days late, the blossoms were still in full bloom. Each season brings new blooms on Mount Hodo, we were fortunate enough to catch the famous yellow flowers of the Japanese Allspice, dark pink Yaekanko, and white Yaenoume in bloom. The bright colours against the backdrop of the Chichibu landscape were stunning. After strolling around the plum garden, we went further up the mountain to the summit which was just a few minutes away. At the summit, several groups and families were picnicking on spread out sheets and blankets. We passed them and headed into the inner shrine area.
The inner shrine is an immensely spiritual place. It apparently marks the location where a miracle occurred. The legend goes that a lord was surrounded by fire on the mountain. A mountain dog, that he believed was sent by a deity, saved him. The dog led him out of the fire. He built a shrine in gratitude to the God who saved him. It is said that the name Mount Hodo (宝登山) was originally written (火止山), 火 fire 止 stop 山 mountain. Later, a larger, more opulent shrine was built at the base of the mountain, but this little shrine at the top is the original. I also found it interesting that a wolf (mountain dog) guards this shrine instead of the usual guardian.
The mountain started to get more crowded at around 11 am, with more and more families arriving via the ropeway. Small pets are also allowed on the ropeway, and several visitors came with their dogs.
Before heading down the mountain we decided to try Miso Potato, one of the Mount Hodo snack foods. Miso Potato is a local B grade food (B 級グルメ). It is tempura mashed potato served with a sweeeeeet miso sauce. The textures of the crunchy outside and soft centre added to the deliciousness. We were surprised, for a B grade mountain food, this was AMAZING!
We carried on down the mountain and came to a small petting zoo. It costs ¥500 to enter. On entering there is a large collection of insect specimens which some children may enjoy. The upper section has enclosers with goats, rabbits, ducks, and a llama. Moving further down into the zoo there is a deer enclosure and a large monkey enclosure. There were so many monkeys that I was a little worried about how they controlled the number. You can buy food to feed them for ¥100. The sheep enclosure was barred from the public due to the Coronavirus.
On our way down we passed several families with young children who probably hadn’t even started elementary school yet. Mount Hodo is truly a mountain that you can hike and enjoy at any age. Coming down the mountain took about 30 minutes. More than a tough mountain climb, it felt like nice gentle exercise. I was grateful as the last big hike I had done was 2 months before. For my untrained body, this was just right. More than exercise though, I enjoyed seeing the views, plum blossoms, and legendary inner shrine at the top of the mountain.
After coming down the mountain and visiting Hodo Shrine we went to Asami Reizo (阿左美冷蔵), a famous local Kakigori (shaved-ice) café. The café was established in 1890 and uses pure mountain ice to make the kakigori. I had dark caramel sauce kakigori with matcha sweet bean paste with shiratama mochi topping. I tried the first bite without any toppings. I could taste the sweet water purified in the mountains. I then poured some of the raw caramel sauce on top for my next bite. The gentle sweetness of the caramel mixed with the delicious pure water melted into me. Next was the matcha paste. Every bite and flavour was out of this world. I was so glad that I ordered the shiratama mochi too. I can’t recommend them enough. It’s important, so I’ll say it again. No matter what flavour you choose, make sure you get the shiratama mochi.
And with that, the days hiking was over. It was a great day to feel the coming of spring surrounded by nature in Nagatoro.
By Car
Take the highway. After getting off at the Hanazono IC in Saitama Prefecture and driving for about 20 minutes, you will reach the area around Nagatoro station. You will arrive Hodo shrine within about 5 minutes of reaching the station.
There are several carparks around the station and leading up towards the shrine. The prices were mainly ¥500 for the day, although we did find one a bit further away which was a bargain ¥200 for the day. We decided to continue onto the mountain though. It is possible to park in Hodo Shrine carpark at the base of the mountain, but the road up to the left will take you to the Ropeway carpark. Parking there costs ¥500 for the day.
By Train
For those coming by train, there is a free shuttle bus from Nagatoro Station to the ropeway carpark.
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